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(“Sawa” is Japanese for mountain stream or creak. River climbing in Japanese is “Sawanobori”).

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This is part 2 of my Sawa Nobori account. Click here for Part 1. By David B   www.griddable.com

My heart still racing from my death-defying first climb, I practically ran to the next waterfall. The second one was much higher than the first, and the guys decided it was best to rope up for this one. Sosha took the lead and set the anchor at the top. It had been a while since I last used an ascender, but it was really just for extra safety, as this waterfall was

much taller and higher volume than the previous one. When I got to the top, I asked Sosha to leave in the anchor so I could belay myself down to the lip of the fall for a better view. It was worth the few extra minutes to be able to stand on the precipice of a large waterfall and take it all in. Two climbs in, the trip had already paid for itself in terms of awesome experiences.

The amazing thing about this hike was that we were able to climb all nine of the waterfalls on the river, mostly without a rope. Usually it’s necessary to have to hike around a few of the falls; in fact, one of the falls we climbed that day was marked as unclimbable, but Sosha figures that must be in the high season when way more water is flowing.

Practically every waterfall was just as fun as the first ones, even if they weren’t all as scary. The beauty around us and the cold water rushing over our feet was almost enough to make me forget how much those undersized sawa tabi were cramping my toes. About 3 or 4 hours in, we finally approached the last major waterfall of the course, and the tallest of the bunch at 30 meters from top to bottom. The fall was stepped so it wasn’t just one big waterfall, but it was impressive nonetheless. It was especially impressive when I was climbing up the side and kept looking down to give the headcam a shot of the fall. We took a quick lunch break after the fall and continued upstream to where the water slowly dwindled down to a trickle and gave way to a mostly dry riverbed. Without the constant flow of cold water over my feet, this part of the hike was easily the harshest, turning into a steep uphill battle with small uncomfortable footing. The very end of the climb was probably the scariest part of the entire course: a steep, slippery slab with bad footing and chossy handholds that broke off more often than not. I looked down after nearly slipping; the fall probably wouldn’t kill me, but I would probably break a few bones tumbling back down into the dry riverbed. Stupid slab.

With some slow persistence, we finally reached our goal, the summit of Kashiyama. A well-worn hiking trail switchbacked all the way back down to where we parked, making for a relatively easy descent. I strapped the headcam on for one last go and ran through the forest. There was a lovely onsen waiting for us at the bottom of the mountain, and I was in a hurry to get out of those damn shoes!

Watch Video: Minami Sawa Adventure 2

Read story: The Adventure Continues Story

This video is Part 2. See Part 1: Minami Sawa Video 1 by David B   www.griddable.com

From Shiretoko Peninsula up north in Hokkaido to Yakushima in Kyushu down south, only but 100 streams have been picked most worthy in this book  「日本百名谷」  with much debate over the chosen few. Difficulty of the climb, beauty of the stream, size of the falls and many other aspects have been considered. After all, Japan is a country of mountains and streams, and impossible to pick but only 100.

Still when looking at this list of the best 100 mountain streams in Japan, it is impressive to say the least. If a person were to climb this all, it would take considerable persistence, time and physical strength, if not impossible.  Top climbers have gathered for the composition of this book. Without the help of these climbers, this task would not have been possible.

Though this lists the “best” river climbs, we would prefer if you don’t hold them in comparison with other rivers. Take them in for what they are, great streams for sawanobori.

Translated from 「日本百名谷」 白山書房

N0
都道府県     Prefecture
山域     Mountain Range
沢の名前     Stream Name

Sawa, zawa, tani, dani, kawa, gawa = river, stream, ravine…

1
北海道     Hokkaido
知床半島     Shiretoko Peninsula
サシルイ沢     Sashirui River

2
北海道     Hokkaido
天塩山地     Teshio
藻興部川氷のトンネル沢     Mo-okoppegawa no Tonnerusawa (The Tunnel Stream of Mo-okoppe River)

3
北海道     Hokkaido
大雪連峰     Taisetsu
クワウンナイ川     Kuwaunnai River

4
北海道     Hokkaido
十勝連峰     Tokachi
トムラウシ渓谷     Tomuraushi　Valley

5

北海道     Hokkaido
夕張山脈     Yubari
ユーフレ川地獄谷     Yufurekawa Jigokudani (Yufure River Hell Valley)

6
北海道     Hokkaido
日高山脈     Hidaka
サッシビチャリ沢南面直登沢     Sasshibicharisawa Nanmenchokutosawa (Sasshibichari Stream, South Wall of Chokutou Stream)

7
北海道     Hokkaido
日高山脈     Hidaka
歴舟川キムクシュベツ沢     Rekifune-kawa Kimukushubetsu-sawa

8
北海道     Hokkaido
日高山脈     Hidaka
中ノ川右股     Nakanogawa-migimata (Nakano River Right Subsidiary)

9

北海道     Hokkaido
日高山脈     Hidaka
ソエマツ岳南面直登沢     Soematsudake South Side

10
北海道     Hokkaido
日高山脈     Hidaka
ピリカヌプリ北面直登沢     Pirikanupuri North Side

11
北海道     Hokkaido
増毛山塊     Mashike
ポン暑寒別川     Ponsyokanbetsu River

12
北海道     Hokkaido
積丹山塊     Shakotan
余別川     Yobetsu River

13
北海道     Hokkaido
狩場山     Karibayama
須築川     Sukki River

14
青森県・秋田県     Aomori, Akita
白神山地     Shirakami
赤石沢     Akaishi River

15
青森県     Aomori
八甲田山     Mt. Hakkoda
滝ノ股川     Takinomata River

16
岩手県     Iwate
岩手山     Mt. Iwate
葛根田川     Kakonda River

17
岩手県     Iwate
裏岩手     Ura-Iwate
大深沢     Oofuka River

18
秋田県・岩手県     Akita, Iwate
和賀岳     Waga-dake
堀内沢、八滝沢     Horiuchi River Yatsudaki River

19
栃木県       Tochigi
太平山     Mt. Taihei
丸舞北又沢、篭滝沢     Marumaikitamatasawa Kagotaki-sawa

20
宮城県・秋田県・岩手県     Miyagi, Akita, Iwate
栗駒山     Kurikoma
産女川     Ubusume River

21
秋田県      Akita
虎毛山     Mt. Torage
春川、万滝沢     Harugawa Mantaki-sawa

22
秋田県・山形県       Akita, Yamagata
神室連峰     Kamuro
大横川     Oyoko River

23
山形県・宮城県       Yamagata, Miyagi
船形連峰     Funakata
横川     Yoko River

24
宮城県        Miyagi
二口山塊     Hutakuti
磐司沢     Banji-sawa

25
宮城県・山形県       Miyagi, Yamagata
蔵王連峰     Zaou
八方沢     Hapo River

26
山形県・福島県        Yamagata, Fukushima
吾妻連峰     Azuma
中津川     Nakatsu River

27            福島県        Fukushima

安達太良     Adatara    　杉田川     Sugita River

28
新潟県・山形県        Niigata, Yamagata
朝日連峰     Asahi
八久和川     Yakuwa River

29
新潟県・山形県        Niigata, Yamagata
朝日連峰     Asahi
三面川、岩井又川     Miomote River Iwaimata River

30
新潟県・山形県・福島県        Niigata, Yamagata, Fukushima
飯豊連峰     Iide
胎内川     Tainai River

31
新潟県・山形県・福島県        Niigata, Yamagata, Fukushima
飯豊連峰     Iide
飯豊川     Iide River

32
新潟県・山形県・福島県        Niigata, Yamagata, Fukushima
飯豊連峰     Iide
長走川、大滝沢     Nagabashiri River Otaki River

33
新潟県        Niigata
川内山塊     Kawauchi
早出川     Hayade River

Full account here:  Sedono Sawa Story

5 November 2010

by Yuji Ohira

By David B

Read Story:  Minami Sawa Story

HAJIMEMASHITE!! I’m Yuji Ohira, a university student in Japan. Sawa climbing is my favorite hobby. So, I want to introduce my activities in this wonderful blog. I belong to Waseda university expedition club and I often go to Sawa with members of the club. This is our record of Sawanobori 5^th.Nov.2010.

Watch video: Sedono Sawa Video

Early morning 6am, we gathered in crowded train on the way from Shinjuku to Shibusawa (Kanagawa prefecture). When we go to mountain, we always have to wake up early morning or go to mountain by last train the day before activity. We sighed with relief when we could confirm that none of us had missed the train (one miss, and you are stuck waiting for an hour!). There were 4 members; two of them were freshmen (Nagayoshi, Shirasawa) and our club present leader Sano and myself.

We got off the train around 6:45 and changed to bus. It took about 15min. We arrived Okura the place is famous for the hiking base for Tanzawa mountains. Furthermore, we walked up an old logging road about an hour and a half, when we arrived at the Tozawa mountain cottage. After changing clothes and depositing unnecessary things (just hiding in the bush), we started upstream.

In the beginning, this stream has comparatively big amount of water. But after we climbed the first waterfall, the stream separated, and we chose the right tributary “Sedono sawa”. Of course a lot of meticulous preparation and information gathering of the Sawa (stream) had been done back home.

Sedono sawa promised everyone thrill and excitement. There are a number of waterfalls here, maybe 8 or so. After 20 minute from divergence, we arrived at a few small but tough falls.

We kept going, and finally arrived at the gigantic 35m waterfall!! To pass this fall, we used a 50m rope. We climbed it at the same time securing ourselves by quickdraws and pitons. There are many pitons left because this route is very popular with Sawa climbers. Most of the pitons were reliable but sometimes unstable. Be careful.

We took about one and half hours to pass the big water fall, because it was the first experience for the lead climber to climb such a big water fall and we wanted to take a video! Please watch the edited clip.

After the big water fall, this Sawa become too ordinary. We climbed the right slope to ridge(named Seijiro). And climbed down to beginning point. It was a good experience.

← view from slope. It was sunny day!!! good view.

River climbing, as you probably have guessed by now, is not the safest of activities. The best we can do is be prepared and minimize risk where we can, and some equipment is absolutely necessary for this. Helmet, carabiner, sit harness are a few examples of needed Climbing & Safety Equipment when preparing for a trip. The difficulty of the river you are going to will change how many of what is needed too. I hope this 4 part equipment guide has helped. Please enjoy your trip and feel free to comment with any questions you may have!

∞ = always take items with the infinity mark

Helmet ∞

To protect your head. Not only for climbing waterfalls and hill slopes, but for protection against falling rocks and debris.

Harness ∞

Since long amounts of time are spent in the water, your skin may get irritated if your harness is tight or belt fat. A simple, thin, lightweight sit harness is recommended.

Sling & carabiner ∞

You can make quickdraws (2 carabiners & 1 sling) as in rock climbing, but generally it’s preferred to use 1 carabiner and 1 sling per point. Depending on the route and number of people, each person should have on them a few 60cm slings, locking carabiners and non-locking carabiners. Wire gate carabiners are lightweight and popular. It would also be useful for a group to carry some longer 120cm and 240cm slings for setting anchor point and natural points.  As with all climbing equipment, only bring inexpensive products on a sawanobori trip. This is because water erodes metal (carabiners) and greatly shortens the lifespan of all products. Even without that, your belongings will smell of sewer water and campfire when you get home. If you are also a rock climber, you probably want to keep your favorite and pricey toys at home.

Climbing rope

8mm to 9mm ropes, 30~50 meters is generally used. Again, this depends on the route you take.

Hammer

Depending on difficulty of the route, have a set of hammers, pitons, camming devices, nuts. Not needed in Japanese streams that are popular sawanobori routes for beginners but necessary if you are going to one of the difficult or newer routes, especially in a country outside of Japan. Camming devices and nuts should be used when possible as an earth friendly alternative to pitons.

Belay/rappel device ∞

one per person.

Helper rope ∞

Having 5~10 meters of 6mm~8mm rope or tape can be extremely helpful. Used by leader to help a follower climb a waterfall or slope, when taking out climbing a hassle and unnecessary. Make sure to keep where you can take out immediately.

Life Jacket

Useful when there is a lot of swimming involved, keeping you afloat and warm.

Ascender

Safer and easier for beginners to use an ascending device than a prusik knot. However, ascenders tend to damage rope so beware when using repeatedly.

Transceiver

Normally not needed, but useful for communication between multiple parties and when climbing falls.

Check my other posts for an easy-to-understand guide of Wear & Footwear, Camping and Cooking Gear and General Mountaineering Gear.